![]() ![]() But powered front wheels will tend to toe in under power, so if you're an old-time shade-tree kind of guy, used to toeing in a little, do it to the specs. An un-powered axle will tend to toe out if there's any looseness, which is why most rear-wheel drive vehicles specify a little toe-in. The XJ alignment spec is for no toe in at all, and I expect that's true for the Grand as well. A tire that has worn irregularly from bad alignment will often continue to wear badly and handle funny even after it's fixed, and that means that if the wear itself is bad enough to cause pull, you'll never solve the problem with that tire on the front. You might also try rotating the tires, to make sure that it isn't a tire problem. I think the older XJ's had a different ball joint arrangement, with no up-down allowance in either joint. The top joint is designed to move up and down, so mere up-down play seen there is not necessarily wear there. If you get side play, it's whichever joint shows the side play, or both. Again, I'm not sure how the ball joints on a Grand differ from an XJ, but on later XJ's, if you get up-down play, it's the lower ball joint. ![]() I'm assuming that your alignment guy checked things like ball joints, but if not, you should do that, by jacking up one side by the axle, shaking and levering the wheel upward. Steering wheel centering is irrelevant to overall alignment, but you should do it at the end to insure that the steering gear itself is on center. If it's rigged like an XJ, you should align first, and then get the steering wheel centered as a separate operation. You should align it first, and then see if it still pulls. To start with, if you did not align it after doing the tie rod, you can't really continue with the diagnosis. ![]()
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